The island of Gavdos is a hidden gem. It is the southernmost place to visit both in Greece and in Europe. The island of Gavdos belongs to Crete and is technically in the Chania prefecture. Gavdos is closer to Africa than to Athens and is about 26 miles from the city of Chora Sfakion (Sfakia) in Crete.
The island is small – about 32 square kilometers – so it is easily explored in a few days. An even smaller island, Gavdopoula, is found nearby. The landscape features pristine beaches and greenery of pine and juniper trees, just like in southern Crete.
What is Life in Gavdos Like?
Relative to the rest of Greece, Gavdos has very minimal infrastructure and maintains a wild, untamed quality. It remains a magnet for those seeking an alternative lifestyle that is closer to nature. It is reminiscent of Matala in southern Crete, where hippies lived in caves on the beach in the 1960s and 1970s, promoting happiness, freedom, community, and love. The island of Gavdos has under 200 local residents, and during the summer, the population grows to 3500. The most popular area for the hippy community to gather is on Agios Ioannis Beach, where some informal “streets” and “addresses” mark the tent homes of its nature-loving residents.
There is one police officer in town. Comically, he is known to double as a taxi driver, using his police car to shuttle tourists around the island.
History of Gavdos Island
The history of Gavdos goes back millenia. In antiquity, it was known as “Odygia.” In Homer’s The Odyssey, Odysseus was held hostage on Odygia by Calypso for 7 years. During the Byzantine era, over 8,000 people lived on Gavdos, before the population reduced again to 500.
In the 1930s, the island became a place of exile. More than 250 people were exiled here, including prominent Greek figures like Markos Vafeiadis and Aris Velouchiotis, leading figures of the Communist Party of Greece. They were dropped on the island and received a stipend of 10 drachmas, some of which was withheld by the authorities. Because the climate is harsh, those in exile fought to survive, sometimes going across the rocky terrain barefoot and battling diseases like malaria.
A community of exiles formed, slowly building their own houses and even creating their own informal currency. A majority of the settlers stayed until 1941, when Gavdos was occupied by German troops.
Beaches in Gavdos
The best-known beach on Gavdos is Sarakiniko. The name comes from the Saracen pirates who once stayed on the island. The beach has nice shady spots and is easy to reach.
Agios Giannis beach is also well-known on the island for hosting a hippy colony. Rastafarians and naturalists come to live here for months or even years, looking to get away from society, Meditation and wellness workshops also take place in Gavdos.
Accommodation in Gavdos
For visitors to Gavdos, a selection of basic hotels are available. They aren’t luxurious but are decent and clean, with basic necessities covered.
Hiking in Gavdos
The island of Gavdos is a favorite for hiking clubs in Crete. One suggested route is from the lighthouse to Ambelos and Pirgos, and then back. The best trail for beginner hikers is from Sarakiniko to Lavrakas. Also on the island, you will find 17 small, simply constructed churches. The main church is known as Agia Triada and is found in the village of Kastri.
While hiking in Gavdos, you are likely to come across some migratory birds. It is an ideal stopping place for birds from Africa as they travel north to Europe. For this reason, the island is part of the Natura 2000 program.
Weather in Gavdos
Uniquely, the island of Gavdos has the highest number of sunny days annually in Europe. This is no surprise because of how close it is to the equator. Keep in mind that the sun gets very intense in Gavdos. This is great for solar power, but for our skin, it is best to take a good sunscreen.
Getting to Gavdos
Boat connections run from April to October, with several boats going per week. From Sfakia, the boat takes about 4 hours. Check the timetables here. Some of the ferry boats were once riverboats in the past. If you are prone to getting seasick, keep in mind that riverboats sway even when the water is calm.
During the winter, there is just 1 ferry boat per week, many times with delays. Some private companies offer transfer to Gavdos from Crete as well.
